It’s really just those four things, plus salt and pepper. But with this and so many other dishes lately, I’ve found that it’s not what the ingredients are, but how good they are that matters more. Sure, if you had “really good” horseradish and served it with “really good” bananas, it might still not taste that great. But every once in a while, you come across a gem like this. I’ll call it a combination of luck and a good growing season.

I’ll also chalk it up to the mustard. I mentioned this in my mustardy egg salad recipe a while back, but this My Friend’s Mustard (a newly launched artisanal mustard made with Sixpoint beers by my friend Anna — no, really) is out of control. When you open the jar, you’re just faced with a glistening pile of multicolored orbs. It’s the mustard seeds, and they feel like caviar in your mouth. They’re coated in a vinegary beer sauce so scarce that nothing visible remains on your spoon after a scoop. They pop in your mouth kind of like caviar, too.

Actually, it also resembles the texture of okra, with its stringy, viscous glue surrounding the seeds. Some people find this sensation icky; I just love it. And I’ve learned from growing okra that the fresher the pod, the slimier it is. Yum.

There’s mashed potatoes, and there’s just boiled potatoes, and “smashed” potatoes is something in between, usually with seasonings. It’s becoming more and more popular in restaurants, it seems. I think it’s a great compromise, if you’re too lazy to make properly mashed, and too unfulfilled with plain-old boiled potatoes. Butter and cream is a hallmark of making good mashed potatoes, but with this “smashed” version, I didn’t add any dairy.

These potatoes were freshly dug from the keg-containers the morning of. A mix of red and fingerling varieties, they were sweet and crisp. Once smashed, and mixed with fresh scallions (from the Greenmarket), okra (just snipped from the plant, and boiled with the potatoes for their last minute) and tasty whole-grain mustard, I couldn’t think of what else it needed.

Perhaps you could add mayonnaise or olive oil, if not butter. But try it for yourself, and see if you can cut some fat if the flavor satisfies as much as it did for us.

Smashed Potatoes with Mustard, Scallions & Okra
(makes about 4 side servings)

2 lbs red or another waxy type of potatoes, such as Yukon gold
2 scallions, both green and white parts, finely sliced on a bias
4-6 fresh okra pods (or a handful)
1/4 cup whole-grain mustard
salt and pepper to taste

Cut potatoes so that they’re approximately even in size (if need be). Bring a pot with enough water to submerge them to a boil. Boil the potatoes until tender. When the potatoes are almost done, add the whole okra pods to boil for 1 minute. Drain.

Slice the okra into 1/4-inch or so discs. Transfer the potatoes to a large bowl, and using a heavy spoon or spatula, gently smash each one against the bowl. Season with salt and pepper and add the mustard; toss well to coat. Add the scallions and okra and toss once more before serving.